Red light therapy has attracted a great deal of attention in recent years within skincare and skin health. For many people it seems like a new trend, but in reality the technology builds on several decades of research into what is known as photobiomodulation, that is, how light affects biological processes in the body.
What makes red light therapy particularly interesting is that the effect does not primarily happen on the surface of the skin. Instead, specific wavelengths of light affect the cells themselves, and in particular the mitochondria, the cells' energy-producing units. When these are stimulated, the production of ATP increases. ATP is the energy cells use to repair, renew and maintain normal functions.
The most studied wavelengths within red light therapy lie in the range of 630 to 660 nanometres, red light, and 800 to 850 nanometres, near-infrared light. These wavelengths penetrate the skin to different depths and affect both the superficial and deeper layers of the tissue. This is an important part of the explanation for why red light therapy does not just give a temporary glow, but may contribute to more long-term improvements in the structure and quality of the skin.
LumaRed Glow Therapy Mask An advanced red light mask for the face, neck and chest, developed for visible skin improvement.
One of the most cited clinical studies in this area was published by Lee and colleagues in 2007. It was a randomised, placebo-controlled trial (RCT) with 76 participants, investigating the effect of LED light with wavelengths of 633 and 830 nanometres. The results showed not only a visible reduction in wrinkles and improved skin texture, but also increased collagen production. What makes this study particularly interesting is that the results were also confirmed through histological analyses, that is, by examining skin tissue under a microscope. In other words, the changes were not just cosmetic, but biologically measurable in the skin¹.
Similar findings have been reported in several studies. Russell and colleagues published a clinical study in 2005 showing that treatment with red LED light could increase collagen production and improve the firmness and structure of the skin. Although this was not a classic RCT, the study is often referred to because it documents clear biological effects in the skin.
In a 2010 study by Barolet and Boucher, which used a so-called split-face design, increased activity was seen in fibroblasts, the cells that produce collagen, along with clear improvements in the skin that had been treated with light only. Although this was not a full randomised RCT, this type of design is regarded as methodologically strong because treated and untreated skin are compared on the same person²³.
When the research is viewed as a whole, the picture becomes even clearer. A systematic review by Avci and colleagues from 2013, which includes several RCTs, concludes that red light therapy may increase ATP production, stimulate collagen and elastin, reduce inflammation and support the skin's natural repair processes⁴. This supports the understanding of red light therapy as more than a cosmetic treatment: it is a method that affects the function of the skin at a biological level.
Another important finding in the research is that combining different wavelengths appears to give a better effect than a single wavelength alone. Studies, including those by Goldberg and Russell, show that combining red and near-infrared light may give a deeper and more comprehensive biological response in the skin⁵.
In addition to red and near-infrared light, blue light, typically around 415–460 nanometres, is also well documented in the treatment of acne. Blue light works by activating porphyrins in Cutibacterium acnes, which leads to the formation of reactive oxygen species that destroy the bacteria. Clinical studies have shown a reduction in acne breakouts when using blue LED light⁶.
At the same time, how the light is used is crucial. The effect of red light therapy depends not only on the wavelengths, but also on intensity and dose. In most clinical studies, the irradiance lies between 10 and 50 mW/cm², and the energy dose between roughly 20 and 60 J/cm² per treatment. This is regarded as a range in which a good biological effect is achieved without overstimulating the tissue.
It is precisely this balance that often separates products with a real effect from those that give limited results. Red light therapy is therefore not just light, it is a precise form of energy that must be delivered correctly in order to work optimally.
This is also where modern, well-considered solutions stand out. By combining several clinically studied wavelengths, including red, near-infrared and blue light, with the right intensity and dose, it is possible to give the skin the same conditions as those used in the research, adapted for safe and effective use at home.
In summary, research shows that red light therapy, when used correctly, may contribute to increased collagen production, improved skin texture, better elasticity and reduced inflammation. In addition, blue light may help reduce acne and bacterial growth. Perhaps most importantly, the effect does not happen only on the surface, but in the biology of the skin itself.
This is what makes red light therapy more than a trend: it is a technology that supports the skin in doing what it is actually designed to do, to repair and renew itself.
Disclaimer: The content of this article is intended as general information only. Research on infrared heat and red light therapy is still evolving, and individual results may vary. Our products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent disease. Contact a doctor or other qualified healthcare professional if you have questions about your own health, diagnosis or treatment.
References
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Lee SY et al. (2007). A prospective, randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blinded study on LED phototherapy for skin rejuvenation. (RCT, n=76)
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Russell BA et al. (2005). Non-thermal LED therapy for skin rejuvenation.
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Barolet D, Boucher A. (2010). Proliferation of fibroblasts using low-level light therapy.
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Avci P et al. (2013). Low-level laser (light) therapy (LLLT) in skin: stimulating, healing, restoring. (includes several RCTs)
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Goldberg DJ, Russell BA. (2006). Combination LED therapy in skin rejuvenation.
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Kawada A et al. (2002). Acne treatment with blue light.
